Winter Escape: Off-The-Beaten-Path in Puerto Rico for 5 Days

Day one: A taste of culture

You've made it to San Juan, but you can't start your adventure on an empty stomach. So head over to whimsical Abracadabra for a "Magical Brunch" in a carnival-like ambiance  

and with a varied menu including chocolate and fruit-topped French toast or a decadent Croque Madame or Monsieur. For a more upscale option, try Sabrina Brunch and Bistro in Calle Loíza, where the menu offers some hearty dishes like Hangar Steak with Pommes Frites or a Puerto Rican version of Eggs Benedict, as well as classically-inspired modern cocktails.  

After a few passionfruit mimosas, kickstart your tour of Santurce, San Juan's urban-chic arts district, where you'll dive right into the Island's culture and history. You'll find these in abundance at the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico (Museum of Art of Puerto Rico). Spread across a 130,000 square feet property, the highly celebrated art museum's 18 exhibition halls house the most important collection of paintings, sculptures, and carvings by Puerto Rican artists on the island, with works from the 17th century to today. Also, check out the sculpture botanical garden in the back (a Zen oasis) and be on the lookout for special events on the museum's website and social media pages.  

You can then make your way to Calle Cerra, where the Santurce es Ley festival takes place every year in early December. For several days and nights, artists paint new murals or create interactive installations while live music plays. The streets are packed with people enjoying drinks and food from local businesses (including artisanal doughnut spot, Kudough's). This impressive collection of urban art fills several city blocks, and the pieces address social issues, depict surreal dreamscapes, or portray scenes from everyday life. Think of it as San Juan's answer to Miami's Wynwood Arts District. Even if you're not here during the event, a walking tour of the murals is a great way to explore the neighborhood and soak up some inspiring visuals.  

Stop for a late lunch at Graziani where it feels like you're walking into a friend's artsy studio apartment. Then, have some tapas and drinks on the rooftop before setting out to explore Santurce's coffee shops (Hacienda San Pedro in particular), bookstores (The Bookmark), and little stores that feature locally-made products (Santurce Pop). Don't miss C787Studios, a thought-provoking gallery boasting experimental and conceptual art along the way. You can also pass by the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico, where local and international artists' mixed media and multimedia pieces take up two floors of one of the most architecturally interesting buildings in San Juan.  

To wrap up your Santurce immersion, sit down for a nice dinner at Musa, where each plate is a masterpiece. This restaurant aims to elevate simple food with creativity and passion. You can also try some crafty cocktails. Or revisit Calle Loíza, where you can choose from a wide array of restaurants such as Acapulco Taquería, Café Tresbé, Yumbootik International Cuisine, or Bocca Osteria, among many others. Finally, if you're not too tired, enjoy the city's nightlife at the iconic La Placita de Santurce, where locals hang out daily, and street dancing is encouraged.  

If you're a coffee lover, don't miss out on the plethora of authentic Puerto Rican coffee shops throughout Old San Juan, like Cuatro Sombras, Finca Cialitos, Café Colao, or Cafe Don Ruiz. If you prefer to cool off instead, head up to Calle San Sebastián, where you can sample some local craft beers at La Taberna Lúpulo or enjoy a specialty mojito at Cinema Bar 1950, overlooking the great lawn of El Morro, where you can watch cruise ships sail by, and families fly kites as the sunsets. If you're still around in the evening, plan for a fancy dinner at Marmalade, followed by a craft cocktail at La Factoría or The Mezzanine. Want to drink with a view? Enjoy a glass of wine or sangría at Al Fresco Wine Bar, where the rooftop spot overlooks the old city's streets.  

If you're still in the mood for some local culture, snag tickets to a symphony performance at the Centro de Bellas Artes in Santurce or catch a foreign film at Fine Arts Cinema in Miramar. For something more exciting (assuming you aren't worn out from all the exploring), book a private salsa lesson in Condado, then head to Piso Viejo, a salsa bar on Calle Loíza, or to popular local hangouts El Local or La Respuesta to practice your new moves. Visit their social media pages to learn about special events, live bands, DJs, and theme nights.  

Day three: Heading out west

Bye-bye metro area! After breakfast, prepare to embark on a nearly two-hour drive to the northwestern coastal town of Isabela, a favorite weekend getaway among local surfers, snorkelers, and beach lovers. The road trip features fantastic scenery as you venture west across the northern valleys and then are met with panoramic views of the north coast's craggy cliffs and miles of deep blue ocean.  

You'll have plenty of options for places to spend the night. For something slightly upscale and beachfront, opt for Villa Montaña Beach Resort, a plantation-style hotel with one- to three-bedroom, fully-equipped villas, each with its patio terrace and jacuzzi. If you're looking for the height of luxury, then Royal Isabela is your best bet. Guests stay in private villas high on a cliff with a dramatic view of the Atlantic Ocean, each with its private pool. Royal Isabela is also a paradise for golfers and has access to secluded El Pastillo beach. Of course, you can always opt for a more private vacation rental like Fusion Beach Villas, a colorful and oceanfront property with a wooded path that leads you to our private beach right behind the property and features its own Floral Art and Gift Gallery.  

If you enjoy surfing or have been curious to try it, Isabela's beaches offer conditions for all levels of surfing experience. Middles beach is the most advanced, with powerful currents and rocky sections offshore where waves break. Jobos Beach is also very popular and has areas appropriate for swimmers and many restaurants, bars, and surf shops.   

If snorkeling is more your style, then visit Shacks Beach, although be warned the current is strong and the seabed is rocky and covered in coral reef. Montones Beach also offers excellent snorkeling and is protected from the Atlantic currents by an enormous formation of volcanic rocks, creating a safe swimming pool. There's also family-friendly Villa Pesquera beach, which has tranquil water and food kiosks nearby.  

Want to get some exercise in? The Paseo Lineal de Isabela is 4.5-mile cycling and jogging lane that follows the coast, reaching famous beaches like Jobos and Montones, with sections in asphalt, packed sand, and boardwalk. On weekends, companies like Pedalea Isabela offer bike rentals to enjoy the Paseo Lineal, although runners and walkers also frequent it.  

For dinner, check out Al Fresco Eclipse restaurant at Villa Montaña Beach Resort, offering some of the best dining in Isabela. Then head into town to try a few libations at La Central, one of the best cocktail bars on the west coast (and possibly the island). The atmosphere is intimate and relaxed. The venue hosts local bands, art shows, and bar takeovers featuring monthly guest chefs and bartenders.  

Day five: Farewell 

If you decide to spend the second half of your stay in the west, you can look into booking a departing flight from the Rafael Hernández International Airport in Aguadilla. Otherwise, if you're heading back to San Juan for your flight home, a stopover for breakfast at El Buen Café, a roadside diner that's an institution in Puerto Rico, or a more brunch-like meal, take a detour to Kaffeina Bistro in Levittown.